Barbacoa Recipe

There is a safe and easy method of producing traditional barbacoa at home with familiar supermarket cuts of meat.

The ancient tradition of barbacoa runs deep within the culture of Mexico. It is also alive and well in parts of the United States where large Mexican-American populations have introduced their customs to the wider culture.

One thing that is certain is that barbacoa is not well understood. There is often the vague notion that it is some sort of mysterious Mexican barbecue made with equally ambiguous ingredients. Even recent arrivals from Mexico can be perplexed because the barbacoa in places like South Texas frequently differs from that traditionally found in Mexico.

In this country barbacoa is often prepared with parts from the head of a cow, such as the cheeks. In northern Mexico, barbacoa is also sometimes made with the head of a cow, but more often it is prepared with cabrito (kid). In central Mexico the meat of choice is lamb, and in the Yucatan their traditional version, cochinita pibil (pit-style pork) is prepared with pork.

Perhaps even greater than the difference between the types of meat in the U.S. version of barbacoa and those in Mexico’s interior, is the cooking process. Throughout Mexico, traditional barbacoa is often made in the same way it was for centuries before the arrival of the Spanish. In this original, Indian pit-cooking process, the meat is seasoned, wrapped in either maguey or banana leaves, then placed on a grill over a cauldron of water that is set over glowing coals in a pit about three feet deep. Often, beans, other vegetables, and spices are added to the pot, and will later be served as a soup with the meat. The pit is then covered and sealed with damp earth. The result is that the meat cooks in a unique process combining smoke and steam. Through the magic of culinary alchemy it emerges falling-apart tender, and infused with the flavor of smoke.

In the United States, barbacoa is often made with only half the process. Usually, meat from the cow’s head is steamed in special steel vessels rather that smoked over water in the traditional manner, (although it should be noted that some commercial producers in Mexico have also forsaken the traditional pit). Why our barbacoa is so often steamed without the flavorful addition of smoke is an open question. In response to queries, more than one barbacoa restaurant proprietor in San Antonio replied that the Health Department would not permit the traditional method. However, when pressed, they were unable to supply specific reasons. A subsequent conversation with one of the city’s health inspectors elicited the opinion that there is no reason why a method that mimics the traditional process could not be used. (Certainly, pits of bare earth would not be permitted, but other more hygiene-friendly methods could be used). The inspector surmised that steaming might be popular because it is both less expensive and time consuming.

Fortunately, for those who may not live near a barbacoa outlet, or who want that extra kiss of smoke, there is a safe and easy method of producing traditional barbacoa at home with familiar supermarket cuts of meat. A significant advantage of the technique, which uses a relatively inexpensive water smoker, is that it can be used to make other types of regional barbeque, including Texas-style beef brisket, ribs, and Carolina pulled-pork, and do so much more easily than with traditional methods.

Water smokers can be purchased at many hardware, building product, and barbecue stores for between $50 and $180, and come in different models that rely alternately on charcoal, electricity and propane to provide the heat. Electric models are the easiest to use. The reason for this is that charcoal models require careful measuring of the fuel, and the addition of coals during cooking to maintain the proper temperature. Gas smokers require the use of propane, which can run out during cooking. Electric models need only be plugged into an outdoor electrical outlet.

The cooking process for an electric water smoker is one I adapted from an article in Cook’s Illustrated on southern pulled pork barbecue, and goes as follows: A few chunks, or a handful of chips of soaked hardwood, such as mesquite or hickory, is placed in the bottom of the smoker, on or near the heating element, according to the manufacturers’ instructions. The water dish is filled with water, the meat placed on the grill, the top put on the smoker, and its cord plugged into an ordinary household outlet. About four hours later, the meat is removed, sealed in a foil baking dish, and placed in a medium oven for one-hour and forty-five minutes. The foil package is then placed inside a paper grocery bag for an additional forty-five minutes. The result is a magical transformation that produces meat that literally falls off the bone, and mimics traditional barbacoa in that it combines smoke and steam heat. While the cooking time is about six hours, active preparation is only about thirty minutes.

The following recipes use the popular, readily available chuck roast for South Texas style barbacoa, and pork butt for Yucatan’s incomparable cochinita pibil. The cooking instructions are the same for both recipes, and I often make them at the same time, especially when serving a large group. This cooking method also works well with other cuts, such as lamb, ribs and chicken. A water smoker can also be used to reheat tamales for 15 to 20 minutes, giving them a crispy texture, and delicious, smoky flavor!

SOUTH TEXAS STYLE BEEF BARBACOA

1 ½ teaspoons garlic powder
1 ½ teaspoons black pepper
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1 ½ teaspoons chile powder
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
2 ½ - 3 ½ pound bone-in chuck roast

Just before cooking, mix together the first five ingredients and rub them into all sides of the meat.
Place some soaked wood chips near the heating element of a water smoker (according to the manufacturers instructions). Pour 3 quarts boiling water into the water pan, and smoke the beef for 4 hours at between 225 and 275 degrees. Check the smoker after 2 hours and add additional boiling water to the pan, if necessary. When done, the internal temperature of the beef should be 160 - 170 degrees. Place the beef in a foil baking pan, seal it with heavy duty aluminum foil, and place it in an oven preheated to 325 degrees. Bake for 1 hour and 45 minutes. Remove the package from the oven, and place it in a large, paper, grocery bag. Fold the bag tightly to seal it and leave it for 45 minutes. (If your foil pan is too large for one bag, use two, overlapping them to completely cover the pan). Remove the meat from the roasting pan. It will literally fall off the bone! Chop and shred the meat into small pieces. Serve with guacamole, salsa, and hot tortillas.

COCHINITA PIBIL Yucatan Style Barbecued Pork

Please note that achiote paste, available at Hispanic markets and some supermarkets may be substituted for the following recado. Also, the banana leaves may be omitted, if desired.

The recado or rub:
1 tablespoon annato seeds (available at Hispanic markets)
½ teaspoon whole cumin
1 teaspoon oregano
1/4 teaspoon powdered allspice
3/4 teaspoon powdered cinnamon
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 ½ teaspoons ancho chile powder
4 cloves garlic, minced and mashed to a paste
2 tablespoons orange juice
½ tablespoon lime juice

Grind the annato seeds and cumin to a powder in a spice or coffee grinder, add the oregano, allspice, cinnamon, salt, coriander and chile powder and grind until the spices are thoroughly mixed. Place the powder in a small bowl, mix in the garlic, orange juice and lime juice. You want a smooth paste that spreads easily. If the recado seems dry add a little more juice.

The pork:

2 ½ - 3 pound, one-half Boston butt roast
The recado
Banana leaves to wrap the pork (optional)
Cotton string to tie the bundle (Do not use nylon cord as it may melt, creating unpleasant fumes and possibly causing burns).
Rub the recado into the pork and put it in the refrigerator overnight. If you are using banana leaves, roll them up, fold them in half, and steam them for 20 - 30 minutes to make them pliable. When the leaves have cooled, place them, shiny side up, on a work surface. Place the pork on the leaves, wrap into a tight bundle and tie with the string.
Place some soaked wood chips near the heating element of a water smoker (according to the manufacturers instructions), pour 3 quarts boiling water into the water pan, and smoke the pork for 4 hours at between 225 and 275 degrees. Check the smoker after 2 hours and add additional boiling water to the pan, if necessary. When done, the internal temperature of the pork should be 160 - 170 degrees. Place the pork in a foil baking pan, seal it with heavy duty aluminum foil, and place it in an oven preheated to 325 degrees. Bake for 1 hour and 45 minutes. Remove the package from the oven, and place it in a large, paper, grocery bag. Fold the bag tightly to seal it and leave it for 45 minutes. (If your foil pan is too large for one bag, use two, overlapping them to completely cover the pan). Remove the pork from the roasting pan, and unwrap the banana leaves or foil. The meat will literally fall off the bone! Chop and shred the pork into small pieces. Serve with guacamole, salsa and hot tortillas.