The Internet's Mexican Food Authority and Number One Expert - Jim Peyton, Mexican Food Cookbook Author

SALSA DE MOLCAJETE

Prepared table-side or in the kitchen, this sauce is a treat


lomexicano.com

 

By Jim Peyton

Jim Peyton

Salsa de Molcajete literally means Asalsa from the molcajete. It refers to a salsa that is ground by hand in Mexico's version of the mortar and pestle. Nearly all salsas used to be prepared this way, but now many cooks use blenders and food processors. So, even in Mexico, the term evokes nostalgia for the handmade quality of bygone days. 

In a few restaurants, such as Mexico City's historic cantina, El Belmont, Salsa de Molcajete pertains to an elaborate salsa that is prepared table-side in a collaboration between the chef and the customer. Think of other table-side preparationsCcherries jubilee, bananas Foster, the traditional Caesar saladCthen picture the chef consulting with customers before the addition of each ingredient!

At the Belmont, the chef places a tray on a table beside the customer. On it are a molcajete, surrounded by a host of colorful, fragrant ingredients: chiles, herbs, spices, garlic, onion, peeled tomatoes, water, limes, and one of the concoctions's secrets: toasted sesame seeds.

The latter is regularly used in different moles, but I had never seen it incorporated into so many salsas. In the proper proportion (moderation), it adds a crunchy texture and an earthy, roasted flavor to the salsa.

After an initial consultation with customers, the chef begins to add and grind the ingredients, one by one. As the process continues the molcajete slowly fills and emits the intoxicating smell of its diverse ingredients.

Salsa de Molcajete can be easily made at home, and one wonders why it is not a regular fixture at even a few ambitious Mexican restaurants in the United States! As far as ingredients are concerned, your imagination is the only limit to the possibilities. Here are some basic suggestions, most of them available in the United States:

  • Salt
  • Garlic
  • Chopped onion
  • Toasted Sesame seeds (heat them in an ungreased skillet over medium heat, stirring often until they are golden brown).
  • A selection of dried chiles, such as, anchos, pasillas, pequíns and tepíns. Break the larger chiles into small pieces and cook them over medium heat in just enough oil to film the surface of a skillet. (Also see below).
  • Fresh chiles, such as serranos, jalapeños and poblanos. They should be roasted or boiled as described below, seeds removed, if you wish, and cut into manageable pieces.
  • Canned chipotle chiles and/or their adobo sauce
  • Tomatoes and tomatillos, also roasted or boiled until the tomato skins can be removed and they are reasonably soft.
  • Cilantro
  • Limes to provide juice
  • Oregano
  • Mint
  • A little water to thin the salsa, if necessary.

 

Tips

Following are some tips to make the process successful.

  • If you cannot find a molcajete a rough-surfaced oriental mortar and pestle will work.
  • Make sure everything to be added to the molcajete can be easily ground.
  • Dried chiles should first be fried in just a little oil until they are crisp enough to grind easily, but care must be taken not to overcook them, which will make them bitter. Smaller ones such as the chile pequín or de árbol can be added whole, but larger ones, such as anchos and pasillas should be broken into small pieces.
  • Fresh chiles should be roasted to make them soft and to facilitate removing their skins. This can be done either in an ungreased skilled over moderate heat, or they can be placed under a broiler until soft and slightly blackened.
  • Tomatoes should also be roasted or boiled until fairly soft and the skins removed.
  • Adding a little salt to the molcajete will provide a coarse texture that will make grinding harder items such as garlic and onions much easier.

If you wish, begin by following the recipe below, which approximates the one I recently had at El Belmont.

 


SAMPLE SALSA DE MOLCAJETE

2 teaspoon salt
2 clove garlic
2 tablespoons finely chopped white onion
2 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds
1 small, roasted, skinned jalapeño
1 chile de árbol, toasted on oil-filmed skillet until crisp but not burned
1 very small pasilla chile, toasted on oil-filmed skillet until crisp but not burned
2/3 of 1 small ancho chile, toasted on oil-filmed skillet until crisp but not burned
2 chile tepins, toasted on oil-filmed skillet until crisp but not burned
1 broiled, skinned tomato
Water as needed
Salt as needed

Add the salt, then add and grind the items, one at a time, grinding each one to the texture you would like before adding the next.

 

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